Wait, Are you speaking English????

So we were told how wonderful it is in India because everyone speaks English. Well I"m not sure if I just don't understand their version of English or if they just don't understand mine, but I sure know I have tried to converse quite a few times at this point with 'an English speaker' and there has been absolutely no communication or message being transmitted. My point is there are over 40 dialects in this country and I think there are just as many 'versions' of English. Don't get me wrong, some of the people here have fantastic English skills (some even better than Matt's!! - kidding babe) and we have had plenty of great conversations about politics, religion, and of course food. But when you go to a place to eat and ask what ingredients are in the food item you are interested in ordering or you need directions or a bottle of water and the answer sounds something like - 'odfndofnongfsdongob' and then you ask again and they say 'dongownbongboig' and then I ask 'Do you speak English' and they say 'yes' in perfect English and then I ask another question and they say 'afgnbofegnbo', let me tell you I want to just pull my hair out.
Moving on.....
I finally just recovered from what they may call Delhi Belly. Around my 6th day in India I had my first run in with a bug. Not sure what kind, or where it came from, but I do know my body didn't like it and told me the 15 times I had to run to the bath room at least 8 of them to hug the toilet face in the bowl. No need to add any more details except to say as the night wore on I must have rubbed off on Matt because at about 2am I heard him run to the bathroom and begin his own 'hugging session' in the bathroom. Two days later and now we're in Delhi staying at my friend Nitin's house and I feel great and have finally moved back to solid food. Matt is recovering a bit slower and I'm hoping his banana split for dinner tonight will give him the energy he needs for the train ride to Jaipur.
This last week has been an eye opener for both of us. India is all that I have heard it would be and more. The food has so many different flavors and variations and smells. The people are smiling and happy and sad and sweet and scary and fantastic and some not so fantastic. Everyone is curious about us and some even think I"m a celebrity. I"m not kidding I have had about 50 people ask to take their picture with me and another 100 or so just stare and take pictures from afar. I"m not sure if it's because we are foreigners or if it is because we look like someone they know but I have never encountered such curiosity. There are other westerners here but we have not seen many and so we cannot tell if this is normal for all or if this is unique to us. Matt has this little mustache thing going on and someone said he looked like an actor because of his mustache. I have a feeling his ego liked that one so we have the 'stache for at least another week. Anyhow, Nitin and his wife Sofia have been the most amazing hosts in Delhi. They gave us their driver for the day so we toured the city weaving in and out of the rickshaws, the horse drawn carts, the buses, the cyclists, the walkers, the dogs, the beggars, the cars, the motos, and of course the occasional cow and goat. It was great fun visiting the spot of the first Muslim mosque built in India, driving through the hectic and a bit scary streets of Old Delhi and stopping for lunch in the middle of it all, walking through the India Gate's tribute to fallen soldiers, bargaining at Janpath Market for some scarves, and learning the lessons of love and acceptance at the Hindi Akshardham Temple part of the Swaminarayan Group with the most ornate ceilings and pillar carvings. That last stop was like a mini Hindu Disneyland including an It's a Small World-esque boat ride, a mini movie, and a water fountain music and light show. Anyhow... I must go to bed for the early ride to Jaipur and then we're off to Agra. Lots of love as always and we miss you all and love the emails. xoxoxoxo

Exactly how big is an inch?

Well, according to our wonderful driver, Imtiyaz, that would be anywhere from 5 feet to 7 feet, depending on the swagger. The reason I pose this question is because we, as well as other living beings, have been within an inch of death on the roads on numerous occasions during the past four days.
Cattle have been inches from severed horns and limbs, chickens have have been spared to see another day of clucking, passenger's knee caps sticking out of auto rickshaws will bend again, large transportation trucks (india version of a semi) will meet their destination with no mortal delays, cats and dogs will continue to be mangy, and all the school children will learn to love another day of learning and staring with smiling faces at foreigners. At the same time, we have nearly missed running over rocks in the road that could pierce steel, avoided swerving over steep precipices, maneuvered through traffic jams shielding hazardous (petrol) service vehicles, and bypassed beehive infested routes...
And this, all this for what??? Well, all this for a shot at "India's beaches that rival those of the Maldives". Welcome to the Konkan Coast just south of Bombay. Well, at least that is what senor lonely planet said...we've learned that sometimes it's just best to leave the book at home. We risked death for the potential of seeing such beaches...but all we got at first were a bunch of trash infested, windy, overpriced, local underwear wearing, wave-deprived, cow populated, and camel run (these were actually cool) beaches.
Obviously this is what traveling is all about and it was a great experience but we didn't begin to hit some better beaches until north Goa. Even then we were introduced to some of the funniest tourists we've encountered yet.
We'll have to tell you about that later...but so far India rocks! We're still trying to figure it out...but we have another three weeks to do so. The people are fun, food is great, weather hot...even when you haven't realized that nobody really speaks English. Cheerio!

From Pat Pong (home of "Ping Pong" show) with Love

Street Pad Thai- 20 baht (about 65 cents)
An evening of Hillary shopping on Koh Sahn Road (main backpacker road in Bangkok)- 220 baht ($6.30)
Going to the sex district the last night you're in Bangkok under strict orders from your girlfriend...pricelesssssss.

Thanks to the joy of the internet we can do our best to include you in our most recent events and most importantly, our last memorable event in Thailand...all I can say is...no hands! That's all she wrote for southeast asia folks. "She", being the artist whose name is in the lower right hand corner of the photo. Have a happy St. Patty's day! PS- Hillary was undercover this evening, which is why Bangkok's finest young "professionals" knew her as "Holly".

"Bus, Train or Air?"- "Bus."- "Sorry, wrong again." "Shit!"

I must admit, if I was a tour bus driver and my mother just happen to own...say..a Taco Bell that was situated on my route, I would most likely stop in for a free meal regardless of what the other 50 people on my bus felt about it. Obviously, that's something to look forward to midway through a good 6-9 hour drive, but not when you're the stinking passenger. The evening we departed Bangkok for Chumpon (the stop over on the way to the pier for our boat to Koh Tao) we thought we were in for a very relaxing overnight drive, but of course we bit for the cheaper mode of transportation and got hooked hard.

Strike 1- Bus was not as luxurious as the bus in photo shown by sales person. I love Hillary and all but sometimes i do need a little space while sleeping in cramped spaces.

Strike 2- first stop was about 30 minutes into drive and driver needed a flower wreath to put over his rear view mirror.

Strike 3- stop number 2...roadside food stand at midnight. who eats at midnight?

Strike 4- stop number 3. get off bus and you have 4 options while waiting for the next bus to pick up...A- do internet. B- watch soccer. C- sleep on the ground. D- go across the driveway to the only bar in Chumpon playing the most non awesome music ever.

Strike 5-...eh whatever, they've already struck out. no need to go any further.

At any rate, we finally made it to Koh Tao and had a blast. Spent the last two days on Koh Pha Ngan to the south and then made the executive decision to fly back to Bangkok from Koh Samui today. We'll try to stick to flying from now on...although sticking to accomodations seems to have gone out the window now...for we're going to rough it tonight and try to stay up all night in order to take the early shuttle to the airport. Wish us luck!

Every day is better than every day...

All I know is that the water makes me happy. Matt and have enjoyed a fabulous week on the beaches in Thailand every day being better than the next. We had a million adventures most of them having to do with our search for Mango Bay and a few incidents on moto bikes but overall we swam, snorkled, hiked, ate, and enjoyed the sun (well Matt hid in the shade but I think he secretly enjoyed the sun). We played with fish and saw a cool looking blowfish, we met some fun Canadians and had a fabulous feast our last night here. More to come on our island adventures but the is about to run out...lots of love!!

Chiang Mai- A Happy Ending every time!

First thing I would do the moment millions of dollars found their way into my pockets would be to fly everyone to Thailand and buy them a $6/hour Thai massage. Woooooah momma! I can't believe I didn't get one the last time I was here.

The Next Jane Goodall but with Elephants!

I love elephants! They are so cute and snuggly and scratchy and their snouts are super hilarious...Matt thinks I have a special knack for those guys so all you vets I know (basically Dirty and Greggy) watch out - Mat says I'm the next Ms. Goodall. Chang Mai Northern Thailand has been fantastic although the slash and burn method of farming is killing my lungs. This time of the year they burn many of the fields in the area to clear them in case of a natural fires and to get ready for the following season so the air quality is pretty bad. Anyhow... since we have arrived we have gone on a bamboo rafting trip, an elephant trail ride (where I got to play with a baby elephant), visited some local tribes (although that part was super lame since they bring endles numbers of tourists to visit these hill tribes and they have become traps for selling bracelets, earrings, purses, etc., etc) played with 14 month old tigers, took a thai cooking class, and had two super amazing thai masages where they stretch your body and do all of this amazing stuff to work your muscles. The area where we are also has fantastic cuisine (don't try the sushi) such as green curry, fresh sweet pork sticky buns - my fave, pad thai, banana pineapple smoothies, fruit in general, tofu in many forms, and of course Matt's new favorite the amazing fresh squeed OJ. Yes I know they have that at home but it's 1 million % better here.

So today I took a ride with Matt outside the city and got to play with tigers (yes, real tigers) and had the most fantastic time!! I go to rest my head on one of their backs and pet them and play with them in their cages - I was a bit nervous but had the time of my life. It was a once in a lifetime experience and the pitures are the best. I mean I was in heaven and so happy and thrilled and scared and could not belive that I had the chance to do that. Really, only in Thailand.

Tonight we leave for Bangkok - another overnight train although this time we don't have a sleeper, just seats which I am a bit worried about. We are meeting my friend Kevin from work in Bangkok for the day then headed down to the long awaited beaches of Thailand. I am super excited for some water time although for some reason I feel the beaches in India wil be equaly great so I'm not worried about our limited time down south.

Matt and I finally figured out how to post pictures so we will put a few up from time to time on the blog. We probabaly won't be on the internet as much this week as the place we have been staying is always connected but thanks everyone for the fabulous emails so far - it's nice to hear from you. This trip is one incredible day after another. Traveling is definately a bit tiring but we are about to RELAX on the beach for the next week so don't feel too sorry for us. Lots of love!

"Bus, Train, or Air?"- "Train"- "Sorry. Wrong answer"

So let me begin by clearing something up. I mentioned in my last blog that we would be working on Hillary's shooting skills when we arrived Cambodia...well, even though we bypassed that experience in Cambodia, I didn't know that her "aim" would consist of "target practice" in the bathroom of a moving train in Thailand. My hat or rather, non la (vietnamese rice hat), is off to her for her many accomplished attempts for the train ride absolutely sucked.

The shiny happy people of Cambodia have done it once again and have won my heart and best of all my smile. Not sure how they do it (maybe because they're sitting on a tourist gold mine, Angkor Wat) but they are, as Hillary said, very genuine people and tons of fun to be around. Unfortunately for a select few Cambodians, they were tons of fun around the wrong American tourist who happened to have t-shirts with his face available to be given out at the hint of a smile. Should anyone happen to head to Angkor Wat and Siem Reap within the next 6 months I am sure you can get one of these lavish t-shirts from a local for about...well, I'd guess a handshake?

Upon arrival to the temples in the early morning I noticed there have been tons of restorations made in the last 4 years and many attempts at future preservation for all to enjoy. A German team has assumed the task of preserving Angkor Wat which in itself is great, for these ruins need not to be lost to erosion and atrophy. At the same time the blocked entries to several parts of the ruin(s) has taken away some of the splendor of exploring these ancient masterpieces. Which, as many of you may have guessed, didn't prevent me from having a good time! Uh oh...here it comes...

So there is a new attraction at night time in Angkor and that is the 7-9pm lighting of the ruins and Cambodian ceremonial activities on the grounds. Fully aware of becoming total hypocritical tourists and contributing to the exploitation of Angkor, we decided to give it a shot since we had met two other entertaining couples during our Cambodian cooking class earlier that day who would be attending as well. As soon as we turned the southwest corner of the exterior perimeter, David (cool aussie), and I head into the shadows and head up the stairs to explore. Not quite the same as exploring Angkor in its entirety but a cool experience nonetheless (mainly since we didn't get caught). Wish I could include the photos but still have no idea how to do that on these blogs. anyone? At any rate being in the temple at night is pretty darn cool.

And to wrap things up...Cambodians love volleyball, Belgian fries in Siem Reap are not really Belgian, banana pancakes rock, Bangkok is massive, koh sahn road has turned into a parking lot resembling Kolby's swap meet, Hillary owns me at Uno and rocks at negotiating prices, and me, i'm just growing a mustache...current brad pitt style...bad idea?

Would You Like a Pringle With That Beetle?

Wow - what a hectic week since I last wrote. Let me tell you Cambodia is fantastic but there is so much to see and such an incredible history that fitting it all in has been impossible.... I'm sure Matt will write more details as my bed is currently calling my name. We took a 16 hour train from Bangkok to Chang Mai in Northern Thailand last night and I, being the light sleeper that I am, slept for probabaly two hours while the rest of the time I was tossed back and forth in my bunk as we moved along the bumpy track. The heat at least started to disappear around 1am so even though I was awake I wasn't soaking wet with sweat as we had been on the previous day's 12 hour bus ride from Cambodia to Thailand...lovely image I'm sure. Matt was asleep in the bunk above me oblivious to the fact that throughout the night I was mastering the abilty to pee over a 6 inch whole with my feet propped up on these two metal foot rests as the train tracks moved by underneath (another nice visual - I'm sure)!!

Anyhow - Cambodia is fabulous. This is a generalization but everyone has a beautiful smile and I felt they hadn't been corrupted with tourism to the point where you felt like someone was trying to cheat you or be sneaky as I have seen in past countries I have visited. People were genuine and helpful and excited about our interest in the culture. When we were in Siem Reap we went to a cooking school and of course explored the Wats. I made this dish called Amok chicken and it was sooooo good - we're making a feast that you all are invited to when we return. Angkor Wat is of course breathtaking and the day we explored the temples we arrived just in time to see the sun rise over the back of the biggest one.

Matt and I arrived in Siem Reap from Phenom Phen via bus and had another great experience with the locals. When the bus stopped for a short lunch break we had our go-to meal of veggie fried rice. Matt was still hungry so he bought a tube of Pringles (loaded baked potato flavor which was quite good and 4 days later we tried sushi flavored Lays)-random but good- and as we walked away the cutest little girl ever just gave me the biggest smile. She was sitting on the curb with what I guess were her mom, sister, and brother and they were sharing a bag of freshly cooked beetles. She watched Matt and I eat a chip as we watched her tear the legs and wings off of the little bugs. We all smiled at one another again so I offered her a chip. She was reluctant but took it and tentatively took a bite... She never did offer me one of her beetles but the smile was worth it. Fun Times - I'm cutting this short for now but we'll get back to some Cambodia moments.
I love traveling... more later. I need sleep. xo, H